FAQ

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  • Sanitation

    • What are phosphates, and why are they bad for my spa?
      • Phosphates are naturally occurring compounds that can enter your spa water through rain, runoff, bathers, or even certain spa chemicals. While they aren’t harmful to people, they act as a food source for algae, which can lead to: 

        • Green, cloudy water. 
        • Increased sanitizer demand as chlorine or bromine works harder to combat algae. 
        • Potential clogging of filters due to algae buildup. 

         
        Gecko waterlab monitors your spa’s ORP and sanitizer levels over 1,000 times per week. If it detects declining ORP or higher-than-normal sanitizer usage, it may indicate early algae growth fueled by phosphates and will notify you through the app. 

    • How do I know if my spa’s salt level is correct?
      • The ideal salt level for most saltwater spa systems is between 2700–4500 ppm. If salt levels are too low:

          • The chlorine generator won’t produce enough sanitizer.
          • ORP levels may drop, reducing water sanitation.
              • If salt levels are too high:

                • It can lead to scaling on the salt cell and spa equipment.
                • It may cause corrosion of metal components.

           

        While Gecko waterlab doesn’t directly measure salt levels, it detects their impact through changes in ORP and sanitizer levels. If Gecko waterlab senses that your ORP is consistently low despite balanced pH and alkalinity, it may suggest checking your salt levels or the salt cell for buildup.

    • How often should I drain and refill my spa to manage TDS?
      • A general rule is to drain and refill your spa every 3–4 months, depending on usage and chemical load. However, Gecko waterlab helps extend this interval by monitoring water chemistry in real-time. If the WaterLab detects signs that sanitizers are becoming less effective or that pH is fluctuating abnormally, it will notify you, suggesting when it’s time to perform a full or partial water change.

    • What is Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), and why does it matter in my spa?
      • Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) measures all the dissolved particles in your spa water, including minerals, salts, metals, and chemical byproducts from sanitizers like chlorine or bromine. Over time, as these substances accumulate, they can:

        • Make the water cloudy or murky.
        • Reduce the effectiveness of chlorine or bromine, making it harder to maintain safe water.
        • Cause scaling and corrosion on spa surfaces and equipment.

         
        Gecko waterlab continuously monitors your spa’s sanitizer levels and ORP readings. When TDS levels get too high, Gecko waterlab may detect lower sanitizer efficiency or unstable ORP levels and alert you through the app, indicating it may be time to drain and refill your spa.

    • How often should I test Total Chlorine in my spa?
      • Without automation, it’s recommended to test Total Chlorine at least once a week, especially after heavy spa use. However, Gecko waterlab removes the guesswork by monitoring your spa’s ORP over 1,000 times per week. It sends alerts through the app when sanitizer levels need adjustment, ensuring your water stays clean and balanced without manual testing.

    • Why does my spa smell like chlorine even though my Total Chlorine is in range?
      • A strong “chlorine” smell usually means there’s a buildup of chloramines (Combined Chlorine), not too much Free Chlorine. Even if your Total Chlorine is within the recommended range (1–3 ppm), chloramines can cause:

        • Unpleasant odors.
        • Eye and skin irritation.
        • Reduced sanitizer effectiveness.

         
        Gecko waterlab helps detect this issue by monitoring ORP levels. If it notices a drop in ORP despite proper chlorine levels, it will suggest shocking the spa (using a non-chlorine oxidizer) to break down the chloramines and restore water clarity

    • What is Free Chlorine, and why is it important in my spa?”
      • Free Chlorine (FC) is the active form of chlorine in your spa water that works to kill bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants. It’s the portion of chlorine that’s ready to sanitize and hasn’t yet combined with other substances in the water. Maintaining the right level of Free Chlorine (between 1–3 ppm) keeps your spa water safe, clear, and free from harmful germs.

    • Why does my spa still smell, even though I’m using bromine?
      • Bromine forms byproducts called bromamines when it binds to contaminants. Unlike chlorine’s chloramines (which cause strong odors), bromamines are less irritating and still sanitize the water. However, if the smell is strong, it might be time to shock the spa with an oxidizer (like potassium monopersulfate) to break down the bromamines and refresh the water.

    • Should I use bromine or chlorine in my spa?
      • Bromine is a great option for spas, especially if you want a gentler sanitizer that works well in hot water. It’s less irritating to the skin and eyes and is particularly good for indoor or covered spas. However, it’s more expensive than chlorine and can be harder to remove from the water if levels get too high.

        • Use bromine if you prefer softer-feeling water and less odor.
        • Use chlorine if you’re looking for a more cost-effective sanitizer and don’t mind more frequent maintenance.
    • If I’m not using CYA, how do I protect chlorine in my spa?
      • Since most spas are covered or indoors, you don’t need to protect chlorine from sunlight. Instead, focus on:

        • Maintaining proper chlorine levels (3–5 ppm for free chlorine).
        • Regularly testing your pH and Total Alkalinity to keep water balanced.
        • Using non-stabilized chlorine (like sodium hypochlorite) instead of stabilized forms (like dichlor), which contain CYA.
    • Can I use dichlor or trichlor tablets in my spa?
      • It’s generally not recommended. Both dichlor and trichlor contain CYA, which will build up over time in your spa water, reducing chlorine effectiveness. If you must use dichlor, use it sparingly and monitor CYA levels regularly to avoid buildup.

    • Should I use Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in my spa?
      • Generally, no. CYA is mainly used in outdoor pools to protect chlorine from UV rays. Since spas are usually covered or indoors, CYA isn’t necessary and can actually make your chlorine less effective. In fact, using CYA in a spa can lead to chlorine lock, where your sanitizer stops working properly, even if your chlorine levels seem fine.

    • Why does my spa water keep going cloudy or irritating my skin even though I’m adding the right chemicals, and how can I fix the pH?
      • Cloudy water or skin irritation in your spa often points to imbalanced pH levels. The pH measures how acidic or basic your spa water is on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. For spas, the ideal pH range is between 7.2 and 7.8. If the pH drifts outside of this range, it can cause a host of problems, even if you’re adding the correct sanitizers and chemicals.

    • Why does my spa water keep forming white, chalky buildup on the surfaces and jets, and how can I prevent it?
      • The white, chalky buildup you’re seeing is called scaling, which is typically caused by high calcium hardness levels in your spa water. When the Total Hardness (TH) exceeds the ideal range (200–400 ppm) and combines with high pH or elevated water temperatures, the excess minerals (mainly calcium) start to precipitate out of the water and form deposits on spa surfaces, jets, and heating elements.

  • App & connectivity

    • Where can I download the app?
      • You can download the app from the App Store (for iOS devices) or Google Play (for Android devices).

  • Control systems

    • How do I set the filter cycle (k9, k18, in.k35 and in.k200 keypads)?
      • Press and hold the Light key until the display shows dxx, xx, which represents the duration in hours. Use the Up and Down keys to change the setting. Press the Light key again. The display will show Fx, x, representing the number of filter cycles per day. Use the Up or Down keys to change the setting.

    • What should I do when the pump 4 or 5 buttons are not working on the in.k600-5OP topside?
      • There is currently only one keypad overlay for the in.k600-5OP, and on some hot tub pack software versions, pumps 4 and 5 will be moved to the upper right and bottom right buttons on the topside instead of the left and right arrows in the center of the keypad.

        If the left and right buttons in the center of the keypad are not operating pumps 4 and 5, try pressing the key on the upper right and the key on the bottom right of the keypad.

    • Where do I find the product ID of an in.yt control system?
      • The ID number of an in.yt pack will always start with 0610- and can be found on the label on the front of the hot tub pack enclosure.

    • How do I change my pack from 120v to 240v?
      • For a 120v-to-240v conversion, please refer to the wiring diagram on the inside of the cover of the hot tub pack for electrical input requirements and heater connection. Also make sure to adjust the breaker/current setting to 80% of the GFCI installed.

  • Keypads

    • How do I set the low-level programming?
      • Note that this process does not apply to in.k500, in.k800 and in.k1000 keypads.

        1. Press and hold the pump 1 button for 30-40 seconds. DO NOT RELEASE the button until you see L or LL on the display. If the control is new and already shows the L or LL on the display, simply skip this step.
        2. Use the Up/Down buttons to change the selection # 3- Press the Light button or Filter Programming button to confirm the selection
    • How to modify the LL “low level” programming on the in.k1000 keypad?
    • What is the unlock code for the in.k1000/1001, in.k800, in.k500 series keypad?
      • Depending on the configuration of the hot tub controller, a code may be required to change the electrical settings. The code is 5555.

    • How do I turn on/off smart winter mode?
      • The smart winter mode is an automatic mode that will start/stop automatically on its own if needed. The trigger is a temperature of 68F where the control box sits in the spa (not the temperature of the water). This mode is always enabled, and it cannot be disabled manually. It will turn off automatically 24 hours after it started if the temperature is warmed up and raised above the trigger.

    • What does the snowflake icon mean?
      • When the snowflake icon appears, it means the smart winter mode is activated.

    • Can I change the customization settings of economy mode?
      • You cannot change or customize the economy mode settings. When enabled, economy mode will lower the current set point by a fixed value of 20 degrees Fahrenheit (or 11 degrees Celsius). Note that the minimum set point will remain at 59F (or 15C) even if economy mode is enabled.

    • How do I turn the economy mode on or off?
      • The in.k200 keypads do not support the economy mode.

  • Pumps

    • What type of seal is used on MS-1?
      • The MS-1 pumps use Gecko’s low friction Universeal seal.

    • What size plumbing does my pump have?
      • You can find that by measuring the outside diameter of the inlet and outlet of a pump. Please make sure to measure both inlet and outlet. It is possible for them to be two different sizes.

        • A measurement of approximately 2″ 3/8 is for a 1.5″ inlet or outlet.
        • A measurement of approximately 3″ is for a 2″ inlet or outlet.
        • A measurement of approximately 3″ 5/8 is for a 2.5″ inlet or outlet.
    • How do I remove the impeller?
    • How do I rotate the wet end?
    • How do I wire my pump cable?
      • Always refer to the manufacturer’s wiring diagram found on the motor.

  • Accessories

    • Where can I purchase the in.clear or Bromicharge in Canada?
      • Bromicharge (sodium bromide used with the in.clear system) was sold in Canada until the end of November 2020.

        It is now no longer available in Canada due to the new Health Canada regulations prohibiting the use of bromine generators in hot tubs and swimming pools.

        As Gecko must comply with these new regulations, products associated with in.clear are no longer available for sale in Canada.

        At this time, Gecko does not manufacture any other water sanitation system. We recommend that you contact your hot tub dealer for other ways to sanitize your water.

    • What is the in.stream 2 PIN/pairing code?
      • The PIN/Pairing code number to pair your device to the in.stream 2 is 5555.

    • How can I pair or re-pair my in.touch 2 modules?
      • If you need to replace a transmitter or pair your transmitters again, power up the home transmitter and press on its pairing button with a paper clip. The status light of the transmitter will blink yellow. Then, shut off the hot tub’s breaker to turn off the transmitter. Wait a few moments and turn the breaker back on. Pairing will then be completed and both transmitter status lights will turn to blue.

    • How do I recover or change my in.touch 2 password?
      • If you signed out of the app and don’t remember the password that was initially used to create your account, you will need need to use the “Forgot password?” option.

        1. Choose the “Forgot password?” option on the login page
        2. Go to your email inbox (make sure to check your spam folder), find the email received from in.touch 2 and select the link in the email. This link will take you to a page asking you to create a new password for your in.touch 2 account. You will then be able to sign in with your new password on the in.touch 2 app.
    • What are the “push” notifications sent by the in.touch 2 app?
      • The in.touch 2 app will notify you if:

        1. One of the two transmitters has not been working or if the communication has been lost between the two transmitters for more than three hours.
        2. A flow status error on your hot tub has been displayed for more than two hours.
    • Is my hot tub compatible with in.touch 2?
      • The in.touch 2 is compatible with any hot tub equipped with Gecko’s Y and X series control systems manufactured in or after 2013.

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